Kepulauan Gili

I arrived at the Gili islands looking for a bit of time alone, but without feeling isolated. After a few weeks in bustling Bali, I wanted to get away from the traffic, the scooters and sellers on the beaches of Kuta and Seminyak.

 Two hours by boat from the most touristic island in Indonesia, and closer to the northwest of neighboring Muslim Lombok, this three islands offer three totally different experiences. For backpackers, couples and groups of friends, or solo travelers, Gili Trawangan, Meno and Air are much more than paradisiacal beaches and sunsets.

Outdoor spas, mosques, horseback riding, beach-side bars, diving and snorkeling with turtles and a taste of authentic Indonesian cuisine with fish and seafood, encouraged me to visit these small islands (or kepulahuan, in Bahasa) in the sea of Bali.

RECHARGE YOURSELF IN GILI AIR

The smallest of the three, and the one closest to Lombok, is Gili Air. The least inhabited of the three islands could be called the paradise-of-not-doing-nothing. The two-hour boat trip from the port of Padang Bai (Bali), is short inside a cabin with reclining and padded seats, with Bintangs (beers) on board. These boats can be accessed from US $ 36 with return.

I crossed Gili Air on foot in 20 minutes. While walking between homestays (houses of locals that rent rooms) and warungs (restaurants), a Muslim sing sounded in the background: it came from the mosque in the middle of the island. It usually begins at four in the morning and accompanies pedestrians at different times of the day. The three -Air, Meno and Trawangan-, profess this religion. In fact, women are hardly seen on the streets. If you do, you will see them completely covered wearing their burka or chador.

In the few paths that exist on this island without motorcycles or cars, you can see the locals carrying water tanks (a scarce and non-potable good), spas and signs painted on the trees with messages like "Open your mind before you open your mouth ".

Afternoon activities include enjoying a seafood barbecue (skewers of fish, squid and roasted vegetables), and some coconut water to drink, while seated on a table right in the ocean, watching the sunset.

When you get tired of the sand in your ankles and want to explore the surroundings of the island, you can do it by bicycle or in cidomos (horse carts), the only means of transport present and allowed in the three islands. I highly recommend no to hire this service, since the owners mistreat and overload the horses, and even hit them. Leasing a bicycle costs from US $ 2 per day.

DRINKS IN GILI TRAWANGAN

The big sister of Gili air (and the one closest to Bali) offers the same crystal clear waters, but with more fauna. A few meters from the shore, I was able to swim with the sea turtles that inhabit the coast, including squid, fish and coral. This is the free option. If you want to explore more, there are excursions on boats - from US $ 10 - that include all the snorkeling equipment and stop at the three islands to dive and swim among turtles and buried sculptures.

After diving, this place offers one of the best sunsets I've ever seen. Riding about 10 minutes from the main street, I arrived at Malibu beach club, located on the west side of the island. There are tables on the beach to enjoy a beer while the sun goes down. There are also cavalcades and swings in the water.

At night time, "Gili T" activates. There are more than a dozen restaurants, bars and clubs offering dinner, live music, drinks and mushroom shakes. While prices are higher than in Bali, you can get a good meal from US $ 7, and a drink for the same price. Jiggy Bar offers dance music and a boat party on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Sama-Sama bar offers reggae nights and live bands.

GILI MENO: PEACE

Perhaps the most unexplored by backpackers, or the least popular of the three is Gili Meno. More visited by couples and diving instructors, the the middle island also offers all kinds of accommodation and one or another restaurant along its eastern and inland, more jungle. Not far from its coast there are submerged statues and fish of all colors.

Which one is the best? It depends on what you are looking for. To move between one island and another, you can do it by speedboat from the public port (from US $ 5), and it does not take more than 20 minutes, depending on the tide.

The common factor of the three? The hospitality offered by the locals. Wherever you walk (or ride), always say hello with a smile.

Even in remote places like the Gilis, you can access to laundry and hairdressing services, pharmacies, doctors and ATMs. From a plate of nasi goreng (fried rice) with the personal touch of each warung, to the most elaborate dinner with influences from European cuisine can be found in the sandy streets of each of these three pieces of paradise.

Muslim women in the narrow streets of Gili Air, February 2018

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